David Allen

Glossary: Sewing Machine Parts and Accessories

• Adaptors
• Belts
• Bobbin Case Parts
• Bobbin Cases
• Bobbin Covers
• Bobbin Winder Parts
• Bobbin Winders
• Bobbins
• Bulbs
• Buttonhole Attachments -Household
• Buttonhole Cutters
• Carbon Brushes
• Check Springs
• Clutch Assembly
• Commercial Sewing Machine Needles
• Control Dials/Knobs/Levers
• Cords
• Covers
• Cut & Sew Attachments
• Electrical Accessories
• Embroidery Hoops
• Even Feed Attachments
• Extension Tables
• Feed Dogs
• Feed Mechanism Components
• Foot Control Accessories
• Foot Control Parts
• Foot Controls
• Gauges
• Gears
• Hand Wheel Parts
• Hand Wheels
• Handles
• Hemmer Feet
• Hooks
• Instruction Books
• Knives- Household Sergers
• Lights & Light Parts
• Lint Brushes
• Looper Drive Components
• Loopers- Household Sergers
• Loopers -Household Sergers
• Lower Knives- Household Sergers
• Machine Head & Cover Components
• Main Shaft Parts
• Miscellaneous
• Miscellaneous Spool Pin Parts
• Motor Parts
• Motors
• Motors -Household Sergers
• Mounting Kits
• Needle Bar & Presser Foot Components
• Needle Bars
• Needle Clamp Gibs
• Needle Clamp Screws
• Needle Clamps
• Needle Plate Parts
• Needle Plate Screws
• Needle Plates
• Needle Plates -Household Sergers
• Needle Threaders
• Needles- Household Machines
• Plates
• Portable Case Parts
• Portable Cases
• Portable Upholstery Machine Parts & Accessories
• Position Brackets
• Position Fingers
• Presser Bar Lifters
• Presser Bar Springs
• Presser Bars
• Presser Feet -Household
• Printed Circuit Boards
• Pulleys/Parts
• Race Parts
• Rufflers
• Screws
• Seam Gauges/Guides
• Serger Accessories -Household Sergers
• Serger Feet -Household
• Serger Feet -Household Sergers
• Serger Needles -Household Sergers
• Serger Parts -Household Sergers
• Serger Screws -Household Sergers
• Sew Steady Portable Tables
• Shaft Washers
• Shanks
• Side Cutters
• Singer Platinum Collection
• Slide Plate Spring Screws
• Slide Plate Springs
• Slide Plates
• Snap-matic Feet
• Spool Holders
• Spool Pins
• Springs
• Switches
• Take-Up Cranks
• Take-Ups
• Tension Parts
• Tensions Complete
• Thread Guides
• Thread Pull Offs
• Thread Tension Components
• Threaders
• Throat Plates
• Tools
• Tweezers
• Zig Zag Attachments

Adaptors

An adaptor allows a user to interchange various types of feet without using a screw driver to remove the foot presently on the machine. It makes changing feet easier. It also allows non-brand feet to be used on any brand machine.

There are several varieties of adaptors. To determine which to use, one would need to know the size or description of the feet each individual machine would use.
For Example:

• Short Shank
• High Shank
• Slant Shank
• Superhigh Shank and Application

Adaptors may also be called shanks or ankles. Instead of an adaptor, you might want to use shanks permanently attached to each individual foot.
For example:

• straight stitch foot (hinged)
• zig zag foot (hinged)
• Straight stitch foot (Solid)
• Zig zag foot (solid)

Aerosols

Various chemicals to clean, lubricate, degrease, derust and/or polish a sewing machine, vacuum cleaner, or other appliance.

Belts

Belts are used to drive sewing machines, vacuums, and other appliances. Belts provide a link between motors and driveshafts. Belts are also available for timing a sewing machine. Each machine requires its own belts. The model umber is necessary to order.

Bobbin Case Parts

Parts used to replace lost or broken parts used on bobbin cases. (Example: springs, screws, latches) Model number and name needed to order.

Bobbin Cases

A bobbin case holds the bobbin and usually has some mechanism to control the tension of the thread as it pulls off the bobbin.

Each machine has a specific bobbin case. The customer should match the model number and name of machine to determine which case must be used.

Bobbins

The bobbin is used to hold the bottom thread and is necessary for the machine to sew. Every machine has a specific bobbin, based on make, model and name.
The bobbin is also known as the shuttle or the lower thread. In some cases, prewound bobbins are available.

Bobbin Winders

Devices that wind bobbins. Model number and name necessary to order.

Bulbs

Provide light to sewing bed. Bulbs come with various bases, shapes and sizes. Model number and name necessary for order.

Buttonhole Attachments

Optional attachment for the sewing machine ti measure and sew buttonholes. Model and name necessary to order.

Carbon Brushes

Parts used in an electric motor to provide contact to positive and negative poles.

Cleaners and Dusters

Various chemicals and tools used to clean and service a sewing machine.

Control Dials – Knobs – Levers

Cosmetic parts on a sweing machine used to adjust stitches.
For example:

• Zig Zag Lever – controls width of decorative stitches
• Stitch length arm/dial – controls length of stitch
• Pattern selector knob – controls selection of desired patterns.

Cords

Provides electric power to appliance. Model number and name necessary to order.
Cut and Sew Attachments
A cut and sew attachment is used for mock serging.
The customer should match the model number and name of machine to determine which case must be used.
The cut and sew attachment is also known as a serge device, or a cutting device.

Dust Covers

Protective covers for sewing machines.

Electrical Accessories

Parts used to provide electrical connection to sewing machine.
(Examples include lead cords, foot controls, foot control cords, light bulbs, light fixures.)

Even-feed Attachments

The even-feed attachment allows for even seams, matching plaids, and eliminates puckering, even when several layers of fabric are being sewn.

Feed Dogs

Part located under the needle plate. Teeth used to move material.

Foot Control Accessories

Friction pads used under foot control to prevent it from sliding.

Foot Control Parts

Parts used to replace lost or broken parts used on foot controls. (Example: springs, screws, latches) Model number and name needed to order.

Foot Control

A device used with the foot to control sewing machine speed.

Gear Saver

Substance used to lubricate gears to prevent wear.

Hand Wheel Parts

Parts used to replace lost or broken parts used on hand wheels. (Example: springs, screws, latches) Model number and name needed to order.

Hand wheel

Wheel located on right side fo machine used to manually move needle up and down.

Hook

The hook picks thread off the needle to create a stitch. Also called a shuttle.

Household Machine Needles

Various brands of needles available in different systems and sizes. The most common needle used in household machines is 15 x 1 size 11-14-16.

Some machines use different system needles, so when ordering it is wise to include brand and model number and description of material to be sewn.

Knives

Knives are used on sergers only. they allow material to be cut to size to match the overlock (overcast) stitch. They make clean edges. The appropriate knife can be determined if the model number and brand are known. Knives are also known as cutters or blades.

Lint Brushes

Small brush used to remove lint and debris from sewing machines.

Loopers

The appropriate looper can be determined if the model number and brand are known. Loopers are not known by any other name.

Metal Conditioner

Chemical used to prepare and extend life of metal parts in sewing machine.

Motors

Provides electrical movement for sewing machines.

Motor Parts

Parts used to replace lost or broken parts used on motors. (Example: springs, screws, latches) Model number and name needed to order.

Needle Clamps

Device that holds the needle in the needle bar.

Needle Clamp Screws

Screws in the needle clamp. Holds needle in place. Model number and brand needed to order.

Needle Clamp Gib

Small wedge-like part that presses on needle to hold in place. Model number and brand needed to order.

Needle Storage

Container to store needles.

Oil/Lubricant

Liquid oil and solid grease used to lubricate sewing machines.

Portable Case

Plastic or leather case to transport and protect sewing machine.

Position Brackets

Parts used to position bobbin case in sewing machines.

Position Fingers

parts used to position bobbin case in sewing machines.

Presser Foot

A pressure foot holds the fabric down and steady while the fabric is stitched. Pressure feet are used for several different purposes.

• Zig-Zag Foot – allows space for needle to swing side-to-side to create a wide stitch.
• Hemmer Foot – Creates a 1/8″ rolled hem by rolling the edge of the fabric to be stitched in one motion.
• Zipper Foot – Allows a needle to be placed close to the metal teeth of the zipper without breaking needles.
  Presser feet have various names according to the sewers background, but are most commonly named for the purpose they accomplish.

Rufflers

Rufflers are used when a gathered or pleated look is the desired effect. Rufflers are also known as pleasters or gatherers. Ruffling and pleating can be done by hand, but it requires much patience and skill.

Screws

Screws are mostly used to replace damaged or lost screws. The right screw is determined by the location on the machine, use, etc.

Serger Feet

Serger feet perform the same function on sergers as presser feet perform on sewing machines.

Shanks

Same as Adaptors

Snap-maticfeet

Same as presser feet, they attach by means of a snap-on connection.

Quick Tip: Sewing Machine Tips and Tricks for Beginners

To minimize breakage of metallic thread while sewing or embroidering, remember to use a metallic needle, reduce your stitch speed, apply a few beads of Sewer’s Aid on the thread spool and, believe it or not, store your metallic threads in a ziplock freezer bag in your freezer. It really works!

Under stitching

Under stitching is one of the best sewing techniques to give your garment a professional finish. I use under stitching whenever possible on facings. After sewing facing onto a garment, the seams are graded and then under stitched.

Grading: A standard 5/8 seam allowance is sewn, then the seam allowance nearest the facing is trimmed away to approximately 1/4 inch. The remaining seam allowance is trimmed to approximately ½ inch.

The next step is to finger press both seam allowances toward the facing. Then, keeping all the seam allowances toward the facing, stitch 1/4 inch away from the seam on the right side of the facing through all three layers.

When ironing the finished seam, use steam and only gentle pressure if necessary. If the pattern calls for top-stitching, your seam is ready to go!

Another stitch to try is the triple zig-zag, or (serpentine stitch). On some fabrics, or pattern pieces, this stitch may make the finished garment lay flatter

Doing this extra step helps the facing roll naturally to the inside giving a much sharper and cleaner finished garment.

Specialty Needles

Needles are one of the most important and essential sewing tools. Using the proper needle for your embroidery project will ensure better quality stitching and a more professional end result. There are 3 specialty needles that are recommended for embroidery: Embroidery, metallic and top-stitch.

The embroidery and metallic needles have only been introduced to the market in the last 2-3 years, due to the growing number of embroidery machines on the market. These needles are designed for trouble free sewing on these machines. These needles have a very light “ballpoint”, a larger eye to accommodate heavy decorative threads and the front groove is deep to reduce skipped stitches. They are also made to withstand the higher temperatures produced by decorative threads as you are sewing. You will find that these needles are slightly thinner than the size 90/14 universal needle you are familiar with. You may also use these needles when sewing on both woven and stretch fabrics.

Names to look for in Embroidery and metallic needles: Schmetz™ Embroidery: has a red band at the base of the shank for easy identification. Available in an assorted size package of three 75/11 and two 90/14 needles or 5 pack of size 75/11. Use these needles when working with rayon threads. Look for the code H-E on the package to identify them when purchasing.

Schmetz Metallics™: designed with an elongated eye, a deep front grove and a longer scarf so you can sew iwth the metallic and flat-filament types of decorative threads, eliminating skipped and thread breakage. These needles are available in a size 80/12. Look for the code H-MET on the package to identify them when purchasing.

Lammertz Metafil™: this is also a size 80/12 needle that has been made from a specially treated alloy that withstands the higher temperatures generated by the synthetic and metallic threads. It has a long eye with a friction-reducing coating, resulting in reduced thread stripping.

It is important to note that as with all your sewing, you should change your needle often. Remember when embroidering that you are sewing through a layer of fabric, and one, two or more layers of stabilizer, plus the density of the threads, which will all tend to dull your needle faster. A good rule of thumb for changing your needle is when you change your bobbin, change your needle.

Top-stitch Needles: this is an extra sharp needle, with the eye twice as long and the front groove is deeper than the 90/14 universal needle. Because of the larger eye and deeper front groove, this needle will accommodate the rayon and metallic threads, even allowing you to thread two strands of thread through it. Since the long eye tends to make this needle somewhat fragile you may find more needle breakage when sewing heavier threads. These needles are available in size 70/10, 80/12 and 90/14. Look for code N on the package to identify them when purchasing.

More Polar Fleece Adventures

Just when you thought you had enough books on polar fleece–here comes More Polar Fleece Adventures, by Nancy Cornwell. This isn’t just another book with the same old polar fleece projects. Nancy Cornwell has introduced several “new Fleece” techniques to add unique embellishments to everything from jackets, to sunglasses holders, to golf club covers.

Many of the techniques are old time friends in the heirloom sewing tradition. One of my favorite techniques is cutwork on fleece. There are suggestions on finding a design, or use the templates in the book. Other techniques include
pintucks with a double needle, decorative stitch sculpturing, texturizing with underlay stitches, and applique on fleece.

In addition to these new techniques to embellish your next polar fleece project, there is a full chapter on buttonholes and sport snaps, and finishing touches. If you want a special look try Fleece Welt or Ultra Suede Backwards Welt Buttonholes–they add a beautiful designer touch to your garment. If you’re not happy with the way your basic buttonholes have been coming out, Nancy has several tips to sew a perfect buttonhole, or try a Self Fabric “Interfaced” Buttonhole.

If you’re looking for a special finishing touch to make your garment extra special, try one of Nancy’s stylish zipper treatments of edge finishes. Whether you are a polar fleece expert, or just beginning, More Polar Fleece Adventures has a refreshing new twist. You will be sure to find the perfect techniques to make your next project extra special.

New User-Friendly Interfacing

Palmer/Pletsch introduces a new line of fusible interfacings that can be used to give added body to garments when sewing. Fusibles were first developed in 1968, at the time Pati Palmer was an educator for the Armo Interfacing Company. Pati called the first fusibles, bake-ons. “You’d iron them on and then they’d bubble and fall off,” says Palmer. Over the years they improved dramatically and fusing agents were applied to woven fabrics, non-woven fabrics, and knits. The latest and best for general use are the new weft interfacings. These are fabrics that are knitted with the addition of a yam woven into them along the crosswise or “weft” direction. They have the softness of a knit, yet the stability of a woven.

In 1989, Pati, in keeping up her contacts with Armo, a division of Crown Textiles, developed a line of interfacings for The McCall Pattern Company in Australia. The line became very successful. At that time, there was no need for her to do this in the U.S. Then, in 1995, Crown Textiles, the premier interfacing manufacturer in the U.S. filed chapter 11 and was sold. Confusion followed. Pati got together with longtime associate and sewing expert, Marta Alto, and began to research for interfacings that would meet their goals. The goals and how they solved them with their new line of Perfect Fuse tm interfacings; are as follows:

Simplification. There are so many interfacing choices that the customer has no idea what to use where. Therefore, they narrowed the choices to 4 that will solve nearly every interfacing need.
See the difference. Often, you can’t tell the difference visually between one interfacing and another. They made sure there is a distinct visual difference between each interfacing in their line. Even the names signify. the differences-Perfect Fuse Sheer, Light, Medium, and Tailor.

Reasonable prices. Prices on interfacings vary greatly. Often you get what you pay for. The team went for the best product, not the best price, yet the new line is reasonably priced and double the width of other products. Based on the wider width, the interfacings are generally less per yard than competitor’s narrower products. The packaging, however, is labor intensive, so in order to keep the prices down for the consumer, there will be no distributor pricing. Because of this, the interfacings will most likely only be found in independent fabric stores.

A new video called Perfect Fusing, The Latest Solutions to Professional Garment Shaping is now available. In it, Marta Alto discusses different interfacings and there uses, including other brands than Perfect Fuse. She also talks about the different uses for the Perfect Fuse brand which includes Perfect Fuse Sheer, Perfect Fuse Light, Perfect Fuse Medium, and Perfect Fuse Tailor. For example, Sheer and Light are similar in weight, so what are the different uses? Sheer provides crisper body. Use it in collars and cuffs. On some smooth fabrics, Light may show through, whereas Sheer won’t. However, Light fuses to textures better than Sheer. Designers use Light as an underlining in 3-ply silk crepe de chine jackets. It makes a great underlining in any jacket where a little extra body is needed. It’s open weave adds breathability. Keep Light in the bag as it can snag-another reason we sell it in a package. Tailor is wonderful in jacket fronts and on the under collar combined with Medium or Light on the upper collar and facing. Medium is ideal for Ultrasuede jackets.

The video also covers preshrinking, cutting, proper fusing, and garment care. Marta takes you through the entire process including showing many different types of garments and explaining what she used and why. She has lots of time-saving tips and advice for quality sewing.

Background:

Pati Palmer’s first job out of college was with Crown Textiles, one of the largest U.S. interfacing manufacturers. She tested the first fusible interfacing for them and has been on the leading edge ever since. Marta Alto has been using, testing, and teaching about fusible interfacings for 30 years. As a team, they saw a need and spent 4 years developing interfacings for their new line of Perfect Fuse Interfacing.

Good performance. Some interfacings bubble during laundering or abrade and pill. All of the new interfacings are wefts which do not pill or shred after several launderings. They add stability as well as softness. In-depth care and preshrinking instructions are given for each one.

Wider widths. Some garments have required narrow interfacings to be pieced. Their new interfacings are 60 and 66 inches wide, TWICE the-width of most other interfacings which are 22″ or 29.1″
Good instructions. Generic instructions, if any, are sold with interfacings today. Each of the new interfacings has its own instructions. In addition, each package includes well-researched and well-written general instructions for using fusibles.

Instant, no-wait purchasing. When you go to the deli and have the choice of waiting for your cheese to be cut or to pick up a package of the same cheese, time will be a factor in your choice. Pre-packaged interfacings mean you don’t have to wait for them to be cut. Perfect Fuse interfacings come in one or three yard packages. One yard of the wider width is plenty for most projects and you can store the unused portions in the plastic envelope. One yard of Tailor will do two jackets, depending on size and style. One yard of Sheer will be enough for several shirts.

Less confusion in your interfacing stash at home. Often, after we use an interfacing, we stack it on the shelf and 3 months later we can’t figure out what it is. The protective storage bag will keep the interfacing clean and the consumer will always know which interfacing is inside.

Quality. Consumers aren’t very confident in how interfacings will perform. Marta Alto and Pati Palmer tested hundreds of products over a 4-year period and spent 2 years writing, editing, and testing use and care instructions. Palmer/Pletsch is a name. recognized for quality.

Foolproof Fly Front Zipper

Here is an easy way for you to have a perfect fly front zipper application every time – and it only takes about ten minutes!

Finish each raw edge of pants fronts at the crotch seams and fly extensions with a serger or zig zag stitch. Use a 12″ zipper for this construction technique. The excess length will be cut off after applying the waistband.

With the right sides of the Pants Fronts together, baste down the center front of the zipper dot.

At the dot, change to a normal stitch length. Backstitch below the dot, and continue stitching crotch seam, stopping about 3″ from the end of the inseam. (VIEW A)
Press fly extensions to open.

With the wrong side of the Pants Front facing up, place the two front pieces and the left fly extensions to the left, leaving the right fly extension on its own. (VIEW B)

Lay the zipper face down on the right fly extension, so that the left edge of the zipper tape will butt up to the center seam. Place the zipper stop 1/4″ above the dot. Pin the right side of the zipper tape to the fly extension only. Stitch the right side of the zipper tape to the right fly extension. The stitching should be less than 1/4″ from the zipper teeth. (VIEW C)

Flip the Pants Fronts and the right fly extension to the right side, leaving the left fly extension exposed.

Push the zipper towards the left fly extension as much as possible and press. Pin the left side of the zipper tape to the left fly extension only. Stitch the zipper tape less than 1/4″ from the zipper teeth to the left fly extension. (VIEW D)

With the right side of the pants facing up on the ironing board, press the zipper and fly to the right of the pants.

Pin the fly front extensions to the pants and topstitch 1″ – 1 1/4″ from the center seam. Use a quilt bar guide for your machine to insure accuracy while topstitching. Be sure to mark where the zipper stop is to avoid hitting it with the needle. The topstitching should end near the dot (VIEW E)

Take out the center seam basting, and your zipper is finished! Wasn’t that easy?

To copy ready-to-wear, you may want to add bartacks. Use a zig zag stitch, with a width of 2.0 and a length of 0.3 (VIEW F)